Xiamen Arboretum

Xiamen Arboretum, perched right behind the towering Monument to Revolutionary Martyrs, has more rocks than you can find in our university cafeterias` rice.

Below ground are dozens of caves, and strewn across the picturesque hills are giant boulders with names like ¡±Laughing Rock.¡± When you¡¯ve seen enough rock stars, stop and smell the roses, because there air even more flowers than rocks. You can spend days exploring the beautifully landscaped trails, visiting the nurseries, and marveling over 4,000 kinds of tropical and subtropical plants, many found nowhere else on earth (or China either).

The Arboretum are reached most easily by taxi, but more adventurous souls avoid the gate charge(minimal, but it¡¯s the principle of it) by hiking over the mountain behind Xiamen University. Ascend the serpentine trail, a relic of Japanese occupation days, up the mountain past the ¡°Heavenly Bestow Mineral Water Company.¡± Cross the bridge and continue past the sign that says ¡°No foreigners beyond this sign.¡± The trail eventually crosses the forested crest, where tigers roamed 60 years ago, and where not long ago they found a 30 foot reticulated python.

But fear not! Reticulated pythons (and Monty Pythons as well) are rare, and fear us more than we fear them. Or so I¡¯m told. But has anyone told them? Two hours north, in Koxinga¡¯s hometown of Nan An, a python ate a farmer and two kids (in separate sittings). I suspect the locals now find the ¡® snake fears man¡® story a bit hard to swallow.

Trek up the Five Old Man Mountains behind Xiamen University, and just over the crest you¡¯ll come to the military camp. You¡¯ll hear it before you see it; budding buglers blow their brass day and night. While you¡¯re there, visit the Military Museum; sons Shannon and Matthew give it rave reviews.

Take the right fork and descend the hill. After a pit stop in the ancient tea garden, saunter down the beautifully laid out trails through the gardens and past the Buddhist nunnery (carefully separated from Nan Pu Tuo monastery by an entire mountain, lest wifeless monks have nun). Splash in the streams a bit, take turns treading the footmill, enjoy the wide lawns and rose beds and orchids, then head out the main gate. The Martyrs Memorial will be on your right, but go straight and you¡¯ll come to Zhong Shan Park, and eventually to the harbor and Gulangyu Island. (Take the ferry, otherwise it¡¯s a long swim).

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